中国砂质海岸分布特征与存在问题   总被引：10，自引：0，他引：10  

李震  雷怀彦 《海洋地质前沿》2006,22(6):1-4

中国东部砂质海岸分布范围广泛,地形发育多样,风沙灾害、海岸侵蚀等地质灾害问题多发,严重影响了沿海地区的社会经济发展。了解沙质海岸的分布特征,做好砂质海岸的研究防护工作,对促进海洋经济持续稳定的发展有着十分重要的作用。  相似文献   

海底输油管道底砂床冲刷机理研究     

吴钰骅  金伟良  毛根海  张恩勇  粟京 《海洋工程》2006,24(4):43-48

设计了海底输油管道水槽冲刷试验模型,研究了海底输油管道与砂床处于不同相对位置情况下床砂起动流速的变化,采用理想流体映射定理对其进行了理论分析,探讨起动流速变化规律。结合有限元数值模拟对试验进行细化分析,研究了海底管道底砂床砂粒起动的产生机理,根据研究结果将冲刷过程划分为五个阶段。阐明了海底管道暴露冲刷的危害性和实时监测的重要性。  相似文献   

Three-dimensional numerical simulation of oblique wave action on vertical walls     

LI Benxi  YU Xiping  YU Yuxiu 《海洋学报(英文版)》2006,25(1):147-153

1 Introduction A vertical wall is one of the typical maritime sheltering structures in the coastal region, which is mainly subjected to wave forces. It has been a com- mon engineering assumption adopted for design pur- poses that normally incident wave fo…  相似文献   

Long baroclinic Rossby waves with periods of about 500d near 20°N in the northwest Pacific Ocean     

CHEN Haiying  QIAO Fangli  FANG Guohong  WANG Yonggang  WEI Zexun 《海洋学报(英文版)》2006,25(3):1-10

On the basis of maps of sea level anomalies data set from October 1992 to January 2004, pronounced low frequency variations with periods of about 500 d are detected in the area near 20°N from 160°W to 130°E. A linear two-layer model is employed to explain the mechanism. It is found that the first-mode long baroclinic Rossby waves at 20°N in the northwest Pacific propagate westward in the form of free waves at a speed of about 10.3 cm/s. This confirms that the observed low frequency variabilities appear as baroclinic Rossby waves. It further shows that these low frequency variabilities around 20°N in the northwest Pacific can potentially be predicted with a lead up to 900 d.  相似文献   

Atmospheric forcing of the eastern tropical Pacific: A review   总被引：1，自引：8，他引：1  

Jorge A. Amador  Eric J. Alfaro  Omar G. Lizano  Victor O. Magaa 《Progress in Oceanography》2006,69(2-4):101

The increase in marine, land surface, atmospheric and satellite data during recent decades has led to an improved understanding of the air–sea interaction processes in the eastern tropical Pacific. This is also thanks to extensive diagnoses from conceptual and coupled ocean–atmosphere numerical models. In this paper, mean fields of atmospheric variables, such as incoming solar radiation, sea level pressure, winds, wind stress curl, precipitation, evaporation, and surface energy fluxes, are derived from global atmospheric data sets in order to examine the dominant features of the low level atmospheric circulations of the region. The seasonal march of the atmospheric circulations is presented to depict the role of radiative forcing on atmospheric perturbations, especially those dominating the atmosphere at low levels.In the tropics, the trade winds constitute an important north–south energy and moisture exchange mechanism (as part of the low level branch of the Hadley circulation), that determines to a large extent the precipitation distribution in the region, i.e., that associated with the Inter-Tropical Convergence Zone (ITCZ). Monsoonal circulations also play an important role in determining the warm season precipitation distribution over the eastern tropical Pacific through a large variety of air–sea–land interaction mechanisms. Westward traveling waves, tropical cyclones, low latitude cold air intrusions, and other synoptic and mesoscale perturbations associated with the ITCZ are also important elements that modulate the annual rainfall cycle. The low-level jets of the Gulf of California, the Intra-Americas Sea (Gulf of Mexico and Caribbean Sea) and Chocó, Colombia are prominent features of the eastern tropical Pacific low-level circulations related to sub-regional and regional scale precipitation patterns. Observations show that the Intra-Americas Low-Level Jet intensity varies with El Niño/Southern Oscillation (ENSO) phases, however its origin and role in the westward propagation and development of disturbances that may hit the eastern tropical Pacific, such as easterly waves and tropical cyclones, are still unclear. Changes in the intensity of the trade winds in the Caribbean Sea and the Gulf of Mexico (associated with eastern tropical Pacific wind jets) exert an important control on precipitation by means of wind–topography interactions. Gaps in the mountains of southern Mexico and Central America allow strong wind jets to pass over the continent imprinting a unique signal in sea surface temperatures and ocean dynamics of the eastern tropical Pacific.The warm pools of the Americas constitute an important source of moisture for the North American Monsoon System. The northeastern tropical Pacific is a region of intense cyclogenetic activity, just west of the coast of Mesoamerica. Over the oceanic regions, large-scale properties of key variables such as precipitation, moisture, surface energy fluxes and wind stress curl are still uncertain, which inhibits a more comprehensive view of the region and stresses the importance of regional field experiments. Progress has been substantial in the understanding of the ocean and atmospheric dynamics of the eastern tropical Pacific, however, recent observational evidence such as that of a shallow meridional circulation cell in that region, in contrast to the classic concept of the Hadley-type deep meridional circulation, suggests that more in situ observations to validate theories are still necessary.This paper is part of a comprehensive review of the oceanography of the eastern tropical Pacific Ocean.  相似文献   

A probability distribution for depth-limited extreme wave heights in a sea state     

Fernando J. Mndez  Sonia Castanedo 《Coastal Engineering》2007,54(12):878-882

A model for the depth-limited distribution of the highest wave in a sea state is presented. The distribution for the extreme wave height is based on a probability density function (pdf) for depth-limited wave height distribution for individual waves [Méndez, F.J., Losada, I.J., Medina, R. 2004. Transformation model of wave height distribution. Coastal Eng, Vol. 50, 97:115.] and considers the correlation between consecutive waves. The model is validated using field data showing a good representation of the extreme wave heights in the surf zone. Some important statistical wave heights are parameterized obtaining useful expressions that can be used in further calculations.  相似文献   

共转换点道集的抽取与转换波时变静校正   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

何兵寿  张会星  彭苏萍 《海洋地质与第四纪地质》2006,26(6):139-144

纵横波速度比固定时,同一地震道中各时间采样点对应不同的转换点位置,因此,常规的整体抽道方法只能抽取特定深度或特定层位条件下的共转换点道集,它不能保证所有P-SV转换波的反射点位置都在同一水平位置处。提出了一种精确抽取共转换点道集的新方法,运用这种方法抽取的共转换点道集中所有数据对应的转换点在地面的投影都对应于同一位置,因此,该道集是一种真正意义上的共转换点道集,在此基础上提出了一种解决短波长问题的转换波时变静校正方法,实际资料处理取得了好的效果。  相似文献   

海浪数值模式研究回顾与进展   总被引：1，自引：1，他引：1  

闻斌  刘俊 《海洋预报》2006,23(4):76-81

本文简单介绍了海浪的生成、发展理论,以及海浪数值模式的分类;回顾总结了国内外在海浪数值模式研究方面取得的成果。  相似文献   

Stress Sharing Behavior and Its Mechanism during Consolidation Process in Composite Ground Improved by Sand Compaction Piles with Low Replacement Area Ratio     

S. -K. You  K. Oda  T. -H. Kim 《Marine Georesources & Geotechnology》2006,24(4):287-304

In order to accurately design a sand compaction pile (SCP) with low replacement area ratio, it is important to understand the mechanical interaction between the sand pile and clay ground and its mechanism during consolidation process in composite ground. In this article, therefore, a series of numerical analyses on composite ground improved by SCP with low replacement area ratio were carried out. The applicability of numerical analyses, in which an elasto-viscoplastic consolidation finite element method was applied, were confirmed by comparing the results obtained from a series of laboratory model tests with the composite ground improved by SCP. Through the results of the numerical analyses, mechanical behavior of the sand pile and clay in composite ground during consolidation is elucidated, together with a stress sharing mechanism between sand pile and clay.  相似文献   

Mach Effect of Oblique Nonlinear Irregular Waves Interacting with Vertical Walls     

冯卫兵潘丽红  洪广文 《中国海洋工程》2004,18(2):299-306

Based on Hong‘s theory, previous random models, and a generalized expression suitable for FIT calculation, the interaction between irregular waves and vertical walls is numerically simulated. The results of simulation demonstrate that the wave energy changes with the incidence angle and the distance from the wall. Particularly, the Mach effect and the combined wave spectrum characteristics are analyzed in detail, which are significant in both theory and practice.  相似文献